Counter Culture
Tom Wolfe: The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test: Chapter 6
THE BUS
I couldn't tell you for sure which
of the Merry Pranksters got
Then
somebody--Babbs?--saw a classified ad for a 1939
Kesey gave the word and the Pranksters set upon it one
that you couldn't tune in on and rap
off of.
The painting job, meanwhile, with everybody pitching in
They took a test run up into
northern California and right
One afternoon the Pranksters were on a test run in the bus
A siren? It's a highway patrolman, which immediately
"That's right, officer," Kesey says. 'We're show people. It's
"Well," says the cop, "you fix up those things and..." He
That was it! How can you give a
traffic ticket to a bunch
By the time they hit San Jose, barely 30 miles down the
Outside, some character, some local, has come over to the
And he is saying to Kesey and Cassady, "You know what
And--of course!--the Non-people. The whole freaking
Before heading east, out across the country, they stopped at
"Here's what I hope will happen on this trip," he says.
"Bullshit," says Jane Bunon.
This brings Kesey up short for a moment, but he just rolls
"That's Jane," he says. " And she's doing her thing. Bullshit.
"None if us are going to deny what other people are doing.
Haul ass, and what we are, out across the Southwest, and
"--there's a barber going down the highway cutting his hair at 500 miles an
hour, you understand--"
"So remember those expressions, sacrifice, glorious and in vain!" Babbs
says.
"Food! Food! Food!" Hagen says.
"Get out the de-glom ointment, sergeant!" says Babbs,
--and so on, because Steve always has a joint glommed
"--De-Glom for the Zonker!-"
--and then Babbs parodies Cassady-
"--and there's a Cadillac with Marie Antoinette--"
--and the speakers wail, and the mandolin wails and the weird laugh wails, and the
variable lag wails-ails-ails-ails-ails-ails, and somebody--who?--hell, everybody
wails,
"-we're finally beginning to
move, after three fucking days!"
On the second day they reached
Wikieup, an old Wild
Sandy feels his first twinge of--what? Like...there is
Kesey and Babbs and Paula hook down some acid orange
...and here they
come.
Babbs has a big cane, a walking stick, and he is waving it
"Oooooh! It sparkles!"
--pulling her long strands of slime-slithering hair outward
Ooooooooh! It sparkles!"
--the beads of water on her slime strands are like diamonds
"Oooooooooh! It sparkles!"
--surfaced euphoric! euphorically garlanded in long greasy garlands of pond slime,
the happiest slime freak in the West--
--and Babbs is euphoric for her-
"Gretchen Fetchin the Slime Queen"' he yells and waves his cane at the
sky.
Ooooooooh! It sparkles!"
Gretchen Fetchin the Slime Queen!"
"It sparkles!"
"Gretchen Fetchin!"
And it is beautiful. Everybody goes manic and euphoric
"Come back! " Hagen the cameraman starts yelling. "You're out of
range!"
But Babbs and Paula and Kesey can't hear him. They are
"It sparkles!"
"Gretchen Fetchin--Queen of the Slime!"
But meanwhile Hagen's Beauty Witch, in the contagion
"Methinks you need a gulp of grass
And so it quickly came to pass
You fell to earth with eely shrieking,
Wooing my heart, freely freaking!"
--and so forth. Well, she wins Hagen's manic heart right
....
At night the goddamn bus still bouncing and the Southwest silvery blue coming in
not exactly bouncing but slipping
This being a school bus, and not a Greyhound, the springs
and the shock absorbers are terrible
and the freaking grinding
straining motor shakes it to pieces
and hulking vibrations
synched in to no creature on earth
keep batting everybody
around on the benches and the bunks.
It is almost impossible
to sleep and the days and nights
have their own sickly cycle,
blinding sun all day and the weird
car beams and shadows
sliding sick and slow at night and
all the time the noise. Jane
Bunon is nauseous practically the
whole time. Nobody can
sleep so they keep taking more speed
to keep going, psychic
energizers like Ritalin, anything,
and then smoke more grass
to take the goddamn tachycardiac
edge off the speed, and acid
to make the whole thing turn into
something else. Then it
all starts swinging back and fonh
between grueling battering
lurching flogging along the
highway--and unaccountable de-
lays, stopped, unendurable
frustration by the side of the road
in the middle of nowhere while the
feeling of no-sleep starts
turning the body and the skull into
a dried-out husk inside
with a sour greasy smoke like a
tenement fire curdling in the
brainpan. They have to pull into
gasoline stations to go to
the bathroom, cop a urination or an
egestion-keep regular,
friends-but 12-how many, 14?--did we
lose somebody-did
we pick up somebody--climbing out of
this bus, which is
weird-looking for a start, but all
these weird people are too
much, clambering out-the service
station attendant and his
Number One Boy stare at this-Negro
music is blaring out
of the speakers and these weird
people clamber out, half of
them in costume, lurid shirts with
red and white stripes,
some of them with weird paint on
their faces, like comic-
book Indians, with huge circles
under their eyes, eyes red,
noses not blue, not nearly blue
enough, but eyes red-all
trooping out toward the Clean Rest
Rooms, already queuing
up practically-
Wait a minute," the guy
says. What do you think you're
doing?"
Fill 'er up!" says
Kesey, very soft and pleasant. "Yes, sir,
she's a big bus and she takes a
lotta gas. Yep."
I mean what are they
doing?"
Them? I 'spect they're going
to the bathroom. Ay-yup,
that big old thing's the worst
gas-eater you ever saw"-all the
time motioning to Hagen to go get
the movie camera and the
microphone.
Well, can't all those people
use the bathrooms."
All they want to do is go to the bathroom-and now
Kesey takes the microphone and Hagen
starts shooting the
film-whirrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr-but all
very casual as if, well,
sure, dont you record
it all, every last morsel of friendly
confrontation whenever you stop on
the great American
highway to cop a urination or two?
or a dozen?
Well, now, listen! You aint using the bathrooms! You
hear me, now! You see that motel
back there? I own that
motel, too, and we got on septic
tank here, for here and
there, and youre not gonna
overflow it for me. Now git that
thing out of my face!
-Kesey has the microphone in the guys face, like this is
all for the six oclock news,
and then he brings the micro-
phone back to his face, just like
the TV interview shows, and
says,
You see that bus out there? Ever time we stop to fill er
up we have to lay a whole lot
of money on somebody, and
wed like it to be you, on
account of your hospitality.
Its an unaccountable adventure in consumer spending,
says Babbs.
Bet those cameras and microphones out of here, the guy
says. Im not afraid of
you!
I should hope not, says Kesey, still talking soft and down-
home. All that money that big
babys gonna drink up.
Whew!
Sheerooooooo-all this time the toilets are flushing, this
side and that side and the noise of
it roars and gurgles right
through the cinder block walls until
it sounds like theres
nothing in the whole wide open U.S.
of A. except for Clean
Rest Room toilets and Day-Glo
crazies and cameras and
microphones from out of nowhere, and
the guy just caves in
under it. He cant fit it into his movie of Doughty
American
Entrepreneur-not no kind of way-
Well, they better make it fast or theres going to be
trouble around here. And he
goes out to fill er up, this
goddamn country is going down the
drain.
But they dont speed it up. Walker
is over to the coin
telephone putting in a call to Faye
back in La Honda. Babbs
is clowning around out on the
concrete apron of the gas
station with Gretchen Fetchin. Jane Burton feels bilious
the idea is to go to New York,
isnt it? even on a 1939 school
bus it could be done better than
this. What are we waiting
waiting, waiting, waiting for,
playing gameS with old crocks at
gas stations. Well, we're waiting
for Sandy, for one thing.
Where in the hell is Sandy. But
Sandy-he hasn't slept in
days and he has an unspecific urge
to get off the bus-but
not to sleep, just to get
off-for-what?-before:::::what?
And Sandy is back over at the morel,
inspecting this electro-
pink slab out in the middle of
nowhere-somebody finally finds
him and brings him back. Sandy is
given the name Dis-
mount in the great movie.
"There are going to be times," says Kesey, "when we can't
wait for somebody. Now, you're
either on the bus or of
the bus. If you're on the bus, and
you get left behind, then
you'll find it again. If you're off
the bus in the first place-
then it won't make a damn." And
nobody had to have
it spelled out for them. Everything
was becoming allegorical,
understood by the group mind, and
especially this: "You're
either on the bus...or off the
bus."
Except for Hagen's girl, the Beauty Witch. It seems like
she never even gets off the bus to
cop a urination. She's sit-
ting back in the back of the bus
with nothing on, just a
blanket over her lap and her legs
wedged back into the cor-
ner, her and her little bare
breasts, silent, looking exceedingly
witch-like. Is she on the bus or off
the bus? She has taken to
wearing nothing but the blanket and
she sheds that when she
feels like it. Maybe that is her
thing and she is doing her
thing and wailing with it and the
bus barrels on off, heading
for Houston, Texas, and she becomes
Stark Naked in the
great movie, one moment all conked
out, but with her eyes
open, staring, the next laughing and
coming on, a lively Stark
Naked, and they are an trying to
just snap their fingers to it
but now she is getting looks that
have nothing to do with the
fact that she has not a thing on.
hell, big deal, but she is now
waxing extremely freaking ESP. She
keeps coming up to
somebody who isn't saying a goddamn
thing and looking into
his eyes with the all-embracing look
of total acid under-
standing, our brains are one brain,
so let's visit, you and I, and
she says: "Ooooooooh, you
really think that, I know what
you mean, but do
you-u-u-u-u-u-u-u-ueeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee"
-finishing off in a sailing tremulo
laugh as if she has just read
your brain and it is the weirdest of
me weird shit ever, your
brain
eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee--
STARK-NAKED
in a black blanket-
Reaching out
for herself,
she woke up one morning to
find herself accosted on all
sides by LARGE
MEN
surrounding her threatening her
with their voices, their presence, their always
desire reaching inside herself
and touching her obscenely upon her
desire and causing her to laugh
and
LAUGH
with the utter
ridiculousness
of it...
-but no one denied her a moment of
it, neither the conked-
out bug-eyed paranoia nor the manic
keening coming on,
nobody denied her, and she could
wail, nobody tried to cool
that inflamed brain that was now
seeping out Stark Naked
into the bouncing goddamn-stop
it!--currents of the bus
throgging and roaring 70 miles an
hour into Texas, for it was
like it had been ordained, by Kesey
himself, back in San Juan
Capistrano, like there was to be a
reaction scale in here, from
negative to positive, and no one was
to rise up negative about
anything, one was to go positive
with everything-go with
the flow-everyone's cool was
to be tested, and to shout No,
no matter what happened, was to
fail. And hadn't Kesey
assed the test first of all? Hadn't
Babbs taken Gretchen
Fetchin, and did he come back at
either one of them up-
tight over that? And wasn't it
Walker who was calling La
Honda from the Servicenters of
America? All true, and go
with the flow. And they went with
the flow, the whole
goddamn flow of America. The bus
barrels into the super-
highway ton stations and the
microphones on top of the bus
pick up an the clacking and ringing
and the mumbling by
the toll-station attendant and the
brakes squeaking and the
gears shifting, all the sounds of
the true America that are
screened out everywhere else, it all
came amplified back
inside the bus, while Hagen's camera
picked up the faces, the
faces in Phoenix, the cops, the
service-station owners, the
stragglers and the strugglers of
America, all laboring in their
movie, and it was all captured and
kept, piling up, inside the
bus. Barreling across America with
the microphones picking
it all up, the whole roar, and
microphone up top gets eerie
in a great rush and then skakkkkkkkkkkkkkk
it is ripping and
roaring over asphalt and thok
it's gone, no sound at all. The
microphone has somehow ripped loose
on top of the bus and
hit the roadway and dragged along
until it snapped off en-
tirely-and Sandy can't believe it.
He keeps waiting for
somebody to ten Cassady to stop and
go back and get the
microphone, because this was
something Sandy had rigged
up with great love and time, it was
his thing, his part of
the power-but instead they are all
rapping and grokking
over the sound it
made--"Wowwwwwwwww! Did you-
wowwwwwww"--as if they had
synched into a never-before-
heard thing, a unique thing, the
sound of an object, a micro-
phone, hitting the American asphalt,
the open road at 70 miles
an hour, like if it was all there on
tape they would have the
instant, the moment, of anything,
anyone ripped out of the
flow and hitting the Great
Superhighway at 70 miles an hour
--and they had it on tape--and
played it back in variable
lag
skakkkkkk-akkk-akkkk-akkkoooooooooooo.
oooooooooooooooooooooooo-Stark Naked waxing weirder
and weirder, huddled in the black
blanket shivering, then out,
bobbing wraith, her little deep red
aureola bobbing in the
crazed vibrations--finally they pull
into Houston and head
for Larry McMurtry's house. They pun
up to McMurtry's
house, in the suburbs, and the door
of the house opens and
out comes McMurtry, a slight,
slightly wan, kindly-looking
shy-looking guy, ambling out, with
his little boy, his son,
and Cassady opens the door of the
bus so everybody can get
off, and suddenly Stark Naked
shrieks out: "Frankie!
Frankie! Frankie!
Frankie!"-this being the name of her own
divorced-off little boy-and she
whips off the blanket and
leaps off the bus and out into the
suburbs of Houston, Texas,
stark naked, and rushes up to
McMurtry's little boy and
scoops him up and presses him to her
skinny breast, crying
shrieking, "Frankie! oh
Frankie! my little Frankie! oh!
oh! oh"--while McMurtry doesn't
know what in the name
of hell to do, reaching tentatively
toward her stark-naked
shoulder and saying, "Ma'am!
Ma'am! Just a minute, ma'am!"--
--while the Pranksters, spilling out
of the bus--stop. The
bus is stopped. No roar, no crazed
bounce or vibrations, no
crazed car beams, no tapes, no
microphones. Only Stark
Naked, with somebody else's little
boy in her arms, is bounc-
ing and vibrating.
And there, amid the peaceful Houston elms on Quenby
Road, it dawned on them all that
this woman--which one of
us even knows her?--had completed
her trip. She had gone
with the Flow. She had gone stark
raving mad.
82 THE TEACHINGS OF DON JUAN
Saturday, April 8, 1962
In our conversations, don Juan
consistently used or
referred to the phrase "man of
knowledge," but never
explained what he meant by it. I
asked him about it.
"A man of knowledge is one who bas followed truth-
fully the hardships of
learning," he said. "A man who
has, without rushing or without
faltering, gone as far as
he can in unraveling the secrets of
power and knowl-
edge."
"Can anyone be a man of knowledge?"
"No, not anyone."
"Then what must a man do to become a man of
knowledge?"
"He must challenge and defeat his four natural ene-
mies."
"Will he be a man of knowledge after defeating these
four enemies?",
"Yes. A man can call himself a man of knowledge
only if he is capable of defeating
an four of them."
Then, can anybody who defeats these enemies be a
man of knowledge?"
"Anybody who defeats them becomes a man of
knowledge."
"But are there any special requirements a man must
fulfill before fighting with these
enemies?"
"No. Anyone can try to become a man of knowl-
edge; very few men actually succeed,
but that is only
83
natural. The enemies a man
encounters on the path of
learning to become a man of
knowledge are truly for-
midable; most men succumb to
them."
What kind of enemies are they, don Juan?"
He refused to talk about the enemies. He said it
would be a long time before the
subject would make
any sense to me. I tried to keep the
topic alive and
asked him if he thought I
could become a man of
knowledge. He said no man could
possibly tell that for
sure. But I insisted on knowing if
there were any clues
he could use to determine whether or
not I had a chance
of becoming a man of knowledge. He
said it would
depend on my battle against the four
enemies--whether
I could defeat them or would be
defeated by them-
but it was impossible to foretell
the outcome of that
fight.
I asked him if he could use witchcraft or divination to
see the outcome of the battle. He
flatly stated that the
results of the struggle could not be
foreseen by any
means, because becoming a man of
knowledge was a
temporary thing. When I asked him to
explain this
point, he replied:
"To be a man of knowledge has no permanence. One
is never a man of knowledge, not
really. Rather, one
becomes a man of knowledge for a
very brief instant,
after defeating the four natural
enemies."
You must ten me, don Juan, what kind of enemies
they are."
He did not answer. I insisted again, but he dropped
the subject and started to talk
about something else.
Sunday, April 15, 1962
As I was getting ready to leave, I
decided to ask him
once more about the enemies of a man
of knowledge.
I argued that I could not return for
some time, and it
would be a good idea to write down
what he had to say
and then think about it while I was
away.
He hesitated for a while, but then began to talk.
When a man starts to learn, he is never clear about
his objectives. His purpose is
faulty; his intent is vague.
90 THE TEACHINGS OF DON JUAN
"He is just a protector and a teacher. He is a power."
"Is he a power within ourselves1"
No. Mescalito has nothing to do with ourselves. He
is outside us."
"Then everyone who takes Mescalito must see him
in the same form."
"No, not at all. He is not the same for everybody."
Thursday, April 12, 1962
Why don't you tell me more about
Mescalito, don
Juan?"
There is nothing to tell."
"There must be thousands of things I should know
before I encounter him again."
"No. Perhaps for you there is nothing you have to
know. As I have already told you, he
is not the same
for everyone."
"I know, but still I'd like to know how others feel
about him."
"The opinion of those who care to talk about him
is not worth much. You will see. You
will probably
talk about him up to a certain
point, and from then
on you will never discuss him."
Can you tell me about your own first experiences1"
"What for?"
"Then I'll know how to behave with Mescalito."
"You already know more than I do. You actually
played with him. Someday you will
see how kind the
protector was with you. That first
time I am sure he
told you many, many things, but you
were deaf and
blind."
Sunday, April 14, 1962
"Does Mescalito take any form when he shows him-
self?"
Yes, any form."
"Then, which are the most common forms you
know?"
"There are no common forms."
91
"Do you mean, don Juan, that he appears in any
form, even to men who know him
well?" ,
"No. He appears in any form to those who know him
only a little, but to those who know
him well, he is
always constant."
"How is he constant?"
"He appears to them sometimes as a man, like us, or
as a light. Just a light."
"Does Mescalito ever change his permanent form with
those who know him well?"
"Not to my knowledge."
Friday, Jury 6, 1962
Don Juan and I started on a trip
late in the afternoon
of Saturday, June 23. He said we
were going to look
for honguitos (mushrooms) in
the state of Chihuahua.
He said it was going to be a long,
hard trip. He was
right. We arrived in a little mining
town in northern
Chihuahua at 10:00 P.M. On
Wednesday, June 27. We
walked from the place I had parked
the car at the out-
skirts of town, to the house of his
friends, a Tara-
humara Indian and his wife. We slept
there.
The next morning the man woke us ip around five.
He brought us gruel and beans. He
sat and talked to
don Juan while we ate, but he said
nothing concerning
our trip.
After breakfast the man put water into my canteen,
and two sweet rolls into my
knapsack. Don Juan handed
me the canteen, fixed the knapsack
with a cord over
his shoulders, thanked the man for
his courtesies, and
turning to me, said, "'It is
time to go."
We walked on the dirt road for about a mile. From
there we cut through the fields and
in two hours we
were at the foot of the hills south
of town. We climbed
the gentle slopes in a southwesterly
direction. When we
reached the steeper inclines, don
Juan changed direc-
tions and we followed a high valley
to the east. Despite
his advanced age, don Juan kept up a
pace so in-
92
credibly fast that by midday I was
completely exhausted.
We sat down and he opened the bread
sack.
You can eat all of it, if you want," he said.
How about you?"
I am not hungry, and we won't need this food later
on."
I was very tired and hungry and took him up on his
offer. I felt this was a good time
to talk about the pur-
pose of our trip, and quite casually
I asked, "Do you
think we are going to stay here for
a long time?
"We are here to gather some Mescalito. We will
stay until tomorrow."
Where is Mescalito"
All around us."
Cacti of many species were growing in profusion all
through the area, but I could not
distinguish peyote
among them.
We started to hike again and by three o'clock we
came to a long, narrow valley with
steep side hills. I
felt strangely excited at the idea
of finding peyote, which
I had never seen in its natural
environment. We entered
the valley and must have walked
about four hundred
feet when suddenly I spotted three
unmistakable peyote
plants. They were in a cluster a few
inches above the
ground in front of me, to the left
of the path. They
looked like round, pulpy, green
roses. I ran toward
them, pointing them out to don Juan.
He ignored me and deliberately kept his back turned
as he walked away. I knew I had done
the wrong
thing, and for the rest of the
afternoon we walked in
silence, moving slowly on the flat
valley floor, which was
covered with small, sharp-edged
rocks. We moved
among the cacti, disturbing crowds
of lizards and at
times a solitary bird. And I passed
scores of peyote
plants without saying a word.
At six o'clock we were at the bottom of the mountains
that marked the end of the valley.
We climbed to a
ledge. Don Juan dropped his sack and
sat down.
I was hungry again, but we had no
food left; I sug-
gested that we pick up the Mescalito
and head back
93
for town. He looked annoyed and made
a smacking
sound with his lips. He said we were
going to spend
the night there.
We sat quietly. There was a rock wall to the left, and
to the right was the valley we had
just crossed. It
extended for quite a distance and
seemed to be wider
than, and not so flat as, I had
thought. Viewed from
the spot where I sat, it was full of
small hills and
protuberances.
"Tomorrow we will start walking back," don Juan
said without looking at me, and
pointing to the valley.
We will work 'our way back and
pick him as we cross
the field. That is, we will pick him
only when be is in
our way. He will find us and not the
other way around.
He will find us-if he wants
to."
Don Juan rested his back against the rock wall and,
with his head turned to his side,
continued talking as
though another person were there
besides myself. "One
more thing. Only I can pick him. You
will perhaps
carry the bag, or walk ahead of me-I
don't know yet.
But tomorrow you will not point at
him as you did
today!"
"I am sorry, don Juan."
"It is alright. You didn't know."
"Did your benefactor teach you all this about
Mescalito?"
"No! Nobody has taught me about him. It was the
protector himself who was my
teacher."
"Then Mescalito is like a person to whom you can
talk?"
"No, he isn't."
"How does he teach, then?"
He remained silent for a while.
"Remember the time when you played with him?
You understood what he meant, didn't
you?"
"I did!"
That is the way he teaches. You did not know it
then, but if you had paid attention
to him, he would
have talked to you."
When?"
94
"When you saw him for the first time."
He seemed to be very annoyed by my questioning.
I told him I had to ask all these
questions because I
wanted to find out all I could.
"Don't ask me!" He smiled maliciously. "Ask him.
The next time you see him, ask him
everything you
want to know."
"Then Mescalito is like a person you can talk..."
He did not let me finish. He turned
away, picked up
the canteen, stepped down from the
ledge, and disap-
peared around the rock. I did not
want to be alone
there, and even though he had not
asked me to go
along, I followed him. We walked for
about five hun-
dred feet to a small creek. He
washed his hands and
face and filled up the canteen. He
swished water around
in his mouth, but did not drink it.
I scooped up some
water in my hands and drank, but he
stopped me and
said it was unnecessary to drink.
He handed me the canteen and started to walk back
to the ledge. When we got there we
sat again facing the
valley with our backs to the rock
wall. I asked if we
could build a fire. He reacted as if
it was inconceivable
to ask such a thing. He said that
for that night we were
Mescalito's guests and he was going
to keep us warm.
It was already dusk. Don Juan pulled two thin, cot-
ton blankets from his sacks, threw
one into my lap, and I
sat cross-legged with the other one
over his shoulders.
Below us the valley was dark, with
its edges already
diffused in the evening mist.
Don Juan sat motionless facing the peyote field. A
steady wind blew on my face.
"The twilight is the crack between the worlds," he
said softly, without turning to me.
I didn't ask what he meant. My eyes became tired.
Suddenly I felt elated; I had a
strange, overpowering
desire to weep!
I lay on my stomach; the rock floor was hard and un-
comfortable, and I had to change my
position every
few minutes. Finally I sat up and
crossed my legs, put-
ting the blanket over my shoulders.
To my amazement
95
this position was supremely
comfortable, and I fell
asleep.
When I woke up, I beard don Juan talking to me. It
was very dark. I could not see him
well. I did not
understand what he said, but I
followed him when he
started to go down from the ledge.
We moved care-
fully, or at least I did, because of
the darkness. We
stopped at the bottom of the rock
wall. Don Juan sat
down and signaled me to sit at his
left. He opened up
his shirt and took out a leather
sack, which he opened
and placed on the ground in front of
him. It contained
a number of dried peyote buttons.
After a long pause he picked up one of the buttons.
He held it in his right hand,
rubbing it several times
between the thumb and the first
finger as he chanted
softly. Suddenly he let out a
tremendous cry.
Ahiiii!"
It was weird, unexpected. It terrified me. Vaguely I
saw him place the peyote button in
his mouth and begin
to chew it. After a moment he picked
up the whole
sack, leaned toward me, and told me
in a whisper to
take the sack. pick out one
mescalito, put the sack in
front of us again, and then do
exactly as he did.
I picked a peyote button and rubbed it as he had
done. Meanwhile he chanted, swaying
back and forth. I
tried to put the button into my
mouth several times, but
I felt embarrassed to cry out. Then,
as in a dream, an
unbelievable shriek came out of me:
Ahiiii! For a
moment I thought it was someone
else. Again' felt the
effects of nervous shock in my
stomach. I was falling
backward. I was fainting. I put the
peyote button into
my mouth and chewed it. After a
while Don Juan
picked up another from the sack. I
was relieved to see
that he put it into his mouth after
a short chant. He
passed the sack to me, and I placed
it in front of us
again after taking one button. This
cycle went on five
times before I noticed any thirst. I
picked up the can-
teen to drink, but don Juan told me
just to wash my
mouth, and not to drink or I would
vomit.
I swished the water around mouth
repeatedly.
96
At a certain moment drinking was a
formidable tempta-
tion, and I swallowed a bit of
water. Immediately my
stomach began to convulse. I
expected to have painless
and effortless flowing of liquid
from my mouth, its had
happened during my first experience
with peyote, but to
my surprise I had only the ordinary
sensation of vomit-
ing. It did not last long, however.
Don Juan picked up another button and banded me
the sack, and the cycle was renewed
and repeated until
I had chewed fourteen buttons. By
this time all my
early sensations of thirst, cold,
and discomfort had
disappeared. In their place I felt
an unfamiliar sense of
warmth and excitation. I took the
canteen to freshen
my mouth, but it was empty.
Can we go to the creek, don Juan?"
The sound of my voice did not project out, but hit
the roof of my palate, bounced back
in to my throat,
and echoed to and fro between them.
The echo was soft
and musical, and seemed to have
wings that flapped in-
side my throat. Its touch s(;'1othed
me. I followed its
back-and-forth movements until it
had vanished.
I repeated the question. My voice sounded as though
I was talking inside a vault.
Don Juan did not answer. I got up and turned in
the direction of the creek. I looked
at him to see if he
was coming, but he seemed to be
listening attentively
to something.
He made an imperative sign with his hand to be
quiet.
Abuhtol[?] is already here!" he said.
I had never heard that word before, and I was won-
dering whether to ask him about it
when I detected a
noise that seemed to be a buzzing
inside my ears. The
sound became louder by degrees until
it was like the
vibration caused by an enormous
bull-roarer. It blasted
for a brief moment and subsided
gradually until every-
thing was quiet again. The violence
and the intensity
of the noise terrified me. I was
shaking so much that
I could hardly remain standing, yet
I was perfectly
rational. If I had been drowsy a few
minutes before,
97
this feeling ~ad totally vanished,
giving way to a state
of extreme lucidity. The noise
reminded me of a science
fiction movie in which a gigantic
bee buzzed its wings
coming out of an atomic radiation
area. I laughed at
the thought. I saw don Juan slumping
back into his
relaxed position. And suddenly the
image of a gigantic
bee accosted me again. It was more
real than ordinary
thoughts. It stood alone surrounded
by an extraordinary
clarity. Everything else was driven
from my mind. This
state of mental clearness, which had
no precedents in
my life, produced another moment of
terror.
I began to perspire. I leaned toward don Juan to
tell him I was afraid. His face was
a few inches from
mine. He was looking at me, but his
eyes were the eyes
of a bee. They looked like round
glasses that had a
light of their own in the darkness.
His lips were pushed
out, and from them came a pattering
noise: Pehtuh-
peh-tuh-pet-tuh." I jumped
backward, nearly crashing
into the rock wall. For a seemingly
endless time I ex-
perienced an unbearable fear. I was
panting and whin-
ing. The perspiration had frozen on
my skin, giving me
an awkward rigidity. Then I heard
don Juan's voice
saying, Get up! Move around!
Get up!"
The image vanished and again I could see his familiar
face.
"I'11 get some water," I said after another endless
moment. My voice cracked. I could
hardly articulate
the words. Don Juan nodded yes. As I
walked away
I realized that my fear had gone as
fast and as mys-
teriously as it had come.
Upon approaching the creek I noticed that I could
see every object in the way. I
remembered I bad just
seen don Juan clearly, whereas
earlier I could hardly
distinguish the outlines of his
figure. I stopped and
looked into the distance, and I
could even see across
the valley. Some boulders on the
other side became -
perfectly visible. I thought it must
be early morning,
but it occurred to me that I might
have lost track of
time. I looked at my watch. It was
ten of twelve! I
checked the watch to see if it was
working. It couldn't
98
be midday; it had to be midnight! I
intended to make a
dash for the water and come back to
the rocks, but I
saw don Juan coming down and I
waited for him. I told
him I could see in the dark.
He stared at me for a long time without saying a
word; if he did speak, perhaps I did
not hear him, for I
was concentrating on my new. unique
ability to see in
the dark. I could distinguish the
very minute pebbles in
the sand. At moments everything was
so clear it seemed
to be early morning, or dusk. Then
it would get dark;
then it would clear again. Soon I
realized that the
brightness corresponded to my
heart's diastole, and the
darkness to its systole. The world
changed from bright
to dark to bright again with every
beat of my heart.
I was absorbed in this discovery when the same
strange sound that I had heard
before became audible
again. My muscles stiffened.
"Anuhctal [as I heard the word this time] is here,"
don Juan said. I fancied the roar so
thunderous, so
overwhelming, that nothing else
mattered. When it had
subsided, I perceived a sudden
increase in the volume
of water. The creek, which a minute
before had been
less than a foot wide, expanded
until it was an enormous
lake. Light that seemed to come from
above it touched
the surface as though shining
through thick foliage.
From time to time the water would
glitter for a second
-gold and black. Then it would
remain dark, lightless,
almost out of sight, and yet
strangely present.
I don't recall how long I stayed there just watching,
squatting on the shore of the black
lake. The roar must
have subsided in the meantime,
because what jolted me
back (to reality?) was again a
terrifying buzzing. I
turned around to look for don Juan.
I saw him climb-
ing up and disappearing behind the
rock ledge. Yet the
feeling of being alone did not
bother me at all; I
squatted there in a state of
absolute confidence and
abandonment. The roar again became
audible; it was
very intense, like the noise made by
a high wind. Listen-
ing to it as carefully as I could, I
was able to detect a
definite melody. It was a composite
of high-pitched
99
sounds like human voices,
accompanied by a deep bass
drum. I focused all my attention on
the melody, and
again noticed that the systole and
diastole of my heart
coincided with the sound of the bass
drum, and with
the pattern of the music.
I stood up and the melody stopped. I tried to listen to
my heartbeat, but it was not
detectable. I squatted
again, thinking that perhaps the
position of my body
had caused or induced the sounds!
But nothing hap-
pened Not a sound! Not even my
heart! I thought I had
had enough, but as I stood up to
leave, I felt a tremor
of the earth. The ground under my
feet was shaking. I
was losing my balance. I fell
backward and remained
on my back while the earth shook
violently. I tried to
grab a rock or a plant, but
something was sliding under
me. I jumped up, stood for a moment,
and fell down
again. The ground on which I sat was
moving, sliding
into the water like a raft. I
remained motionless,
stunned by a terror that was, like
everything else,
unique, uninterrupted, and absolute.
I moved through the water of the black lake perched
on a piece of soil that looked like
an earthen log. I had
the feeling I was going in a
southerly direction, trans-
ported by the current. I could see
the water moving
and swirling around. It felt cold,
and oddly heavy, to
the touch. I fancied it alive.
There were no distinguishable shores or landmarks,
and I can't recall the thoughts or
the feelings that must
have come to me during this trip.
After what seemed
like hours of drifting, my raft made
a right-angle turn
to the left, the east. It continued
to slide on the water
for a very short distance, and
unexpectedly rammed
against something. The impact threw
me forward. I
closed my eyes and felt a sharp pain
as my knees and
my outstretched arms hit the ground.
After a moment
I looked up. I was lying on the
dirt. It was as though
my earthen log had merged with the
land. I sat up and
I turned around. The water was
receding! It moved back-
ward, like a wave in reverse, until
it disappeared.
I sat there for a long time, trying' to collect my
100
I thoughts and resolve all that had
happened into a co-
herent unit. My entire body ached.
My throat felt like
an open sore; I had bitten my lips
when I landed."
I stood up. The wind made me realize
I was cold. My
clothes were wet. My hands and jaws
and knees shook
so violently that I had to lie down
again. Drops of
perspiration slid into my eyes and
burned them until I
yelled with pain.
After a while I regained a measure of stability and
stood up. In the dark twilight, the
scene was very clear.
I took a couple of steps. A distinct
sound of many
human voices came to me. They seemed
to be talking
loudly. I followed the sound; I
walked for about fifty
yards and came to a sudden stop. I
had reached a dead
end. The place where I stood was a
corral formed by
enormous boulders. I could
distinguish another row,
and then another, and another, until
they merged into
the sheer mountain. From among them
came the most
exquisite music. It was a fluid,
uninterrupted, eerie flow
of sounds.
At the foot of one boulder I saw a man sitting on the
ground, his face turned almost in
profile. I approached
him until I was perhaps ten feet
away; then he turned
his head and looked at me. I
stopped-his eyes were
the water I had just seen! They had
the same enormous
volume, the sparkling of gold and
black. His head was
pointed like a strawberry; his skin
was green, dotted
with innumerable warts. Except for
the pointed shape,
his head was exactly like the
surface of the peyote
plant. I stood in front of him,
staring; I couldn't take
my eyes away from him. I felt he was
deliberately
pressing on my chest with the weight
of his eyes. I
was choking. I lost my balance and
fell to the ground.
His eyes turned away. I heard him
talking to me. At
first his voice was like the soft
rustle of a light breeze.
Then I heard it as music-as a melody
of voices-and
I knew" it was saying,
"What do you want?"
I knelt before him and talked about my life, then
wept. He looked at me again. I felt
his eyes pulling me
away, and I thought that moment
would be the moment
101
of my death. He signaled me to come
closer. I vacillated
for an instant before I took a step
forward. As I
came closer he turned his eyes away
from me and
showed me the back of his hand. The
melody said,
"Look!" There was a round
hole in the middle of his
band. Look!" said the
melody again. I looked into the
hole and I saw myself. I was very
old and feeble and
was running stooped over, with
bright sparks flying
all around me. Then three of the
sparks hit me, two in
the head and one in the left
shoulder. My figure, in the
hole, stood up for a moment until it
was fully vertical,
and then disappeared together with
the hole.
Mescalito turned his eyes to me again. They were
so close to me that I
"heard" them rumble softly with
that peculiar sound I had heard many
times that night.
They became peaceful by degrees
until they were like
a quiet pond rippled by gold and
black flashes.
He turned his eyes away once more and hopped like
a cricket for perhaps fifty yards.
He hopped again and
again, and was gone.
The next thing I remember is that I began to walk.
Very rationally I tried to recognize
landmarks, such as
mountains in the distance, in order
to orient myself. I
had been obsessed by cardinal points
throughout the
whole experience, and I believed
that north had to be to
my left. I walked in that direction
for quite a while
before I realized that it was
daytime, and that I was no
longer using my "night
vision." I remembered I had a
watch and looked at the time. It was
eight o'clock.
It was about ten o'clock when I got to the ledge
where I had been the night before.
Don Juan was lying
on the ground asleep.
Where have you been?" he asked.
I sat down to catch my breath.
After a long silence he asked, Did you see him?"
I began to narrate to him the
sequence of my experi-
ences from the beginning, but he
interrupted me saying
that all that mattered was whether I
had seen him or
not. He asked how close to me
Mescalito was. I told
him I had nearly touched him.
102
The part of my story interested him.
He listened
attentively to every detail without
comment, interrupt-
ing only to ask questions about the
form of the entity
I had seen, its disposition, and
other details about it.
It was about noon when don Juan
seemed to have had
enough of my story. He stood up and
strapped a canvas
bag to my chest; he told me to walk
behind him and
said he was going to cut Mescalito
loose and I had to
receive him in my hands and place
him inside the bag
gently.
We drank some water and started to walk. When we
reached the edge of the valley he
seemed to hesitate
for a moment before deciding which
direction to take.
Once he bad made his choice we
walked in a straight
line.
Every time we came to a peyote plant, he squatted
in front of it and very gently cut
off the top with his
short, serrated knife. He made an
incision level with
the ground, and sprinkled the
wound," as he called it,
with pure sulphur powder which he
carried in a leather
sack. He held the fresh button in
his left hand and
spread the powder with his right
hand. Then he stood
up and handed me the button, which I
received with
both hands, as he had prescribed,
and placed inside the
bag. "Stand erect and don't let
the bag touch the
ground or the bushes or anything
else," he said re-
peatedly, as though he thought I
would forget.
We collected sixty-five buttons. When the bag was
completely filled, he put it on my
back and strapped
a new one to my chest. By the time
we had crossed the
plateau we had two full sacks,
containing one hundred
and ten peyote buttons. The bags
were so heavy and
bulky that I could hardly walk under
the weight and
volume.
Don Juan whispered to me that the bags were heavy
because Mescalito wanted to return
to the ground. He
said it was the sadness of leaving
his abode which made
Mescalito heavy; my real chore was
not to let the
bags touch the ground, because if I
did Mescalito would
never allow me to take him again.
103
At one particular moment the pressure of the straps
on my shoulders became unbearable.
Something was
exerting tremendous force in order
to pull me down. I
felt very apprehensive. I noticed
that I had started to
walk faster, almost at a run; I was
in a way trotting
behind don Juan.
Suddenly the weight on my back and chest dimin-
ished. The load became spongy and
light. I ran freely
to catch up with don Juan, who was
ahead of me. I
told him I did not feel the weight
any longer. He ex-
plained that we had already left
Mescalito's abode.
Tuesday, July 3, 1962
"I think Mcscalito has almost
accepted you," don Juan
said.
"Why do you say he has almost accepted me, don
Juan?"
"He did not kill you, or even harm you. He gave you
a good fright, but not a really bad
one. If he had not
accepted you at all, he would have
appeared to you
as monstrous and full of wrath. Some
people have
learned the meaning of horror upon
encountering him
and not being accepted by him."
"If be is so terrible, why didn't you tell me about it
before you took me to the
field?"
"You do not have the courage to seek him deliber-
ately. I thought it would be better
if you did not know."
"But I might have died, don Juan!"
"Yes, you might have. But I was certain it was going
to be alright for you. He played
with you once. He
did not harm you. I thought he would
also have com-
passion for you this time."
I asked him if be really thought Mescalito had had
compassion for me. The experience
had been terrify-
ing; I felt that I had already died
of fright.
He said Mescalito had been most kind to me; he
had showed me a scene that was an
answer to a ques-
tion. Don Juan said Mescalito had
given me a lesson.
I asked him what the lesson was and
what it meant.
FRONT LINES
The edge of the cancer
Swells against the hill--we feel
a foul breeze--
And it sinks back down.
The deer winter here
A chainsaw growls in the gorge.
Ten wet days and the log trucks
stop,
The trees breathe.
Sunday the 4-wheel jeep of the
Realty Company brings in
Landseekers, lookers, they say
To the land,
Spread your legs.
The jets crack sound overhead, it's
OK here;
Every pulse of the rot at the heart
In the sick fat veins of Amerika
Pushes the edge up closer--
A bulldozer grinding and slobbering
Sideslipping and belching on top of
The skinned-up bodies of still-live
bushes
In the pay of a man
From town.
Behind is a forest that goes to the
Arctic
And a desert that still belongs to
the Piute
And here we must draw
Our line.
Gary Snyder from Turtle Island.
THE CALL OF THE WILD
The heavy old man in his bed at
night
Hears the Coyote singing
in the back meadow.
All the years he ranched and mined
and logged.
A Catholic.
A native Californian.
and the Coyotes howl in his
Eightieth year.
He will call the Government
Trapper
Who uses iron leg-traps on Coyotes,
Tomorrow.
My sons will lose this
Music they have just started
To love.
The ex acid-heads from the cities
Converted to Guru or Swami,
Do penance with shiny
Dopey eyes, and quit eating meat.
In the forests of North
America,
The land of Coyote and Eagle,
They dream of India, of
forever blissful sexless highs.
And sleep in oil-heated
Geodesic domes, that
Were stuck like warts
In the woods.
And the Coyote singing
is shut away
for they fear
the call
of the wild.
And they sold their virgin cedar
trees,
the tallest trees in miles,
To a logger
Who told them,
"Trees are full of bugs."
The Government finally decided
To wage the war all-out. Defeat
is Un-American.
And they took to the air,
Their women beside them
in bouffant hairdos
putting nail-polish on the
gunship cannon-buttons.
And they never came down,
for they found,
the ground
is pro-Communist. And dirty.
And the insects side with the Viet
Cong.
So they bomb and they bomb
Day after day, across the planet
blinding sparrows
breaking the ear-drums of owls
splintering trunks of cherries
twining and looping
deer intestines
in the shaken, dusty, rocks.
All these Americans up in special
cities in the sky
Dumping poisons and explosives
Across Asia first,
And next North America,
A war against earth.
When it's done there'll be
no place
A Coyote could hide.
envoy
I
would like to say
Coyote is forever
Inside you.
But it's not true.